The DMZ and North Korea

Over the past weekend, we decided it was time to take the DMZ tour up to the North Korean border. While not a tourist attraction like the world's largest tomato, the tour to this region of the world brings about a stark sense of tragedy and somber reflection.

We began our Saturday morning at 4:30 AM to an underappreciated and often despised alarm clock. A bit of fresh coffee and toast in our bellies, we hurriedly lumbered down to the subway to meet Jessica, Hugo, Tommy and Susan. At 5:30 AM we caught the subway into the city; our destination the USO (United Service Organization) who graciously hosted the DMZ tour. You can't vist the DMZ on your own. You must have a tour take you. There are several companies that can take you up to the DMZ, but we found through a bit of research that the USO offers the best possible tour. We arrived at our destination about 7 AM to a slight rain and gray skies. I thought to myself earlier in the week that I would have preferred rain for such a journey. We boarded the bus about 7:30 AM for the short 1 hour 30 minute trip up to the North. The further north we traveled on the bus, the less populated the road was. In fact, there wasn't a soul on the four lane freeway as we approached the first garrison. A Korean soldier boarded our bus and checked our passports. Apparently, no Koreans are allowed on the tour and, even stranger, we were told that no Arabs were allowed either. What do Arabs have to do with this? I have no idea. I'm a little confused by that one.

So after we cleared the first guard post, we weaved in and out of barricades and spikey tire busters and such up to the JSA (Joint Security Area). Upon arrival, we were briefed by Uncle Sam on a bit of history of the area. Very interesting stuff. Seeing history brings an instant sense of understanding that just can't be learned through reading. Currently, there are 600 South Korean soldiers and 40 American soldiers. Not too long ago, a couple of years, the US agreed to allow ROK (Republic of Korea) to control the JSA under direction of the US. So, we after the brief, we boarded military busses up to the border. On the border, there were three UN buildings painted in their obligatory light blue color. In these shacks, on the literal border of the MDL (Military Demarcation Line), we were able to walk around the negotiation tables. On the other side of the table, you find yourself across the border and into North Korea. The feeling is chilling. The two soldiers in the picture below are South Koreans assigned to protect us. Outside the building are South Koreans and Americans making eyes with North soldiers.






























































It's not always (or ever) wise to judge another's culture, but when there are people starving and being tortured on one side of an arbitrary boundary, I can't help but be confused. I can see them, I can see their cities, they speak the same Korean language, they are ethnically the same, but had the horrible misfortune to wind up on the wrong side of a super-power dispute come 1953. This concept is really difficult to comprehend and the sadness is palpable across both borders.


Funny story about the picture below. This is an example of the crazy antics of the North. So, until recently, the flags below were miniatures blowing in the breeze of the room until President Bush visited. During his vist to the area, two North Korean soldiers snuck into the conference room and took hold of the South Korean and US flags. One soldier proceeded to blow his nose with the South Korean flag and the other buffed his shoes with the US flag. After they caught this on video tape, the South placed the flags on the wall under plastic.















In this picture, you can see a few North Korean guard towers. We were able to zoom in and see binoculars staring at us as we peered across the border. VERY creepy.















In these pictures, you are looking into North Korea. The brownish colored piece of concrete in the bottom of the pictures is the actual border. If you look closely at the last picture, you can see a North soldier standing guard just to the left of the front door.



















The next pictures are from a guard point where you are surrounded on three sides by North Korea. In the distance, you can see a town with a giant flag. This is called Propaganda Village by the South. The town is fake; no one lives there and the the building are hollow. The flag is immense, weighing in over 600 pounds. The town is also equipped with an enormous stereo system that blares communist propaganda across to the South.















Here's another view outpost.



































We feel fortunate to have seen part of the conflict between the North and South. We can't claim that we understand the conflict but feel a little bit better informed on the matter.

The upcoming weekend's forecast looks like hiking and the Terry Fox 10K run on Sunday. Should be fun. Have a good week.